Burning Ps1 Game With Imgburn
I recently came across my old PS1, and i decided to look for my old (and small) collection of games that i had. Sadly, most of them are scratched beyond repair due to storing in terrible conditions. Since i owned (and tecnically, stil own) those games, and since my PS1 is chipped, i decided to burn the copies on a CD-R. Im currently using a Verbatim CD-R, so i guess it's not bad quality. After a few tries with ImgBurg (i always did something wrong, and resulted in games not being read by the PS1, or being read only in audio format), i managed to burn a copy of Castelvania:SoTN on a CD-R.
Burn Ps1 Games To Dvd
It had a track 1 and track 2, which i 'merged' together in one.bin file with a software called 'CDMAGE', it gave me another.cue and one.bin, which contained both tracks of the game. ( I actually had to do some really weird stuff with my ps1 to make it load, like turning it upside down and such, but in the end, it loaded correctly). Now, i got a copy of disk 1 and disk 2 of MGS for the PS1, but both files are in.mdf and.mds. I tried to burn the.mds (metadata, just like.cue) as i thought that it would burn the.mdf too but, for some reasons, it won't burn the whole thing. It just burns a few things, resulting the PS1 not being able to load it (insert PS1 CD format, red screen). What can i do? Could someone give me a clear explaination (pictures and step-by-step would be more appreciate, since i have troubles learning from text without visual examples) on what to do?
And why a lot of.bin and.cue files that i tried to burn didn't work either? (i burned the.cue of course, just as i did with Castelvania, but for some reasons, it didn't work) Thanks you.
Plus, you can't just infer that because they're Verbatim CD-R's that they're any good. Verbatim farms out their CD production partly to CMC Magnetics, the worst optical disc manufacturer out there. Unless they're DataLife Plus they're most likely CMC. If you bought them in a brick and mortar store, they're most likely CMC. You'd need to check the MID/DID field in ImgBurn on one of the CD-R's to see. Also, I don't know why you're merging the tracks together. That should surely cause some kind of problem, I'd think.
I believe PS games sometimes store their music as a separate track on their game discs. So, even if the game works, you'd most likely not have any music. Plus, you can't just infer that because they're Verbatim CD-R's that they're any good. Verbatim farms out their CD production partly to CMC Magnetics, the worst optical disc manufacturer out there.
More Burning Ps1 Game With Imgburn videos. Our Picks for the 10 Best iPhone Apps of 2017 Veruca Salt's Top 8 Apps Best Star Wars Game Apps for Android and iOS St. ImgBurn is a solid burning. ***Read Below*** Today's video I will show you how to rip your PS1 games to your PC's hard drive.
Unless they're DataLife Plus they're most likely CMC. If you bought them in a brick and mortar store, they're most likely CMC. You'd need to check the MID/DID field in ImgBurn on one of the CD-R's to see.
Also, I don't know why you're merging the tracks together. That should surely cause some kind of problem, I'd think. I believe PS games sometimes store their music as a separate track on their game discs.
So, even if the game works, you'd most likely not have any music. Yes, sadly i just realized that those disks are CMC. But i also realized something else: ( I live in a PAL region, so my PS1 it's PAL) The Castelvania copy i burned was (E) (European), and it worked. I recently also burned a copy of MGS, which was European too (specific for my country actually, but still PAL), and it worked. But when i tried to burn a copy of a japanese game, it reads it as an audio CD, with only one track which doesn't reproduce anything because obiviously it's computer data. Im starting to think that my chip can't bypass region lock.
Is this possible? Do modchips that doesn't bypass region lock exist?
Because if they do, im starting to think that's the actual problem with my PS1. PS: merging the two tracks actually made my Castelvania copy works, so really, i have no idea on this one, but before merging them it didn't work, it readed it as an audio CD.
About the audio, sometimes i feel like it's a bit 'flanged', but i can ear it, i dont see any problem with it for now Edited by Kubaru, 02 July 2015 - 05:49 PM. I believe that mod chips have to specifically support bypassing the region lock in order for outer region games to load. They need to be hard coded to bypass the region locking. I don't believe all chips did that, especially older ones. I don't know that for sure, though.
I had an ancient PS with the serial port on the back. I got a device that connected to it to play Japanese import games. I could finally determine that my modchip (or my PS1, it's a SCPH-102) can't play games from other regions, by running the same game only on different formats/regions. I took my copy of FF7, one (E) and one from Japan, the (E) one goes well, the Japanese one doesn't even get recognised. Now, i would like to 'convert' NTSC and NTSC-J games into PAL, so they can run on my chipped PS1. I've already tried an application for the PS1 called 'Import Player Light', but it doesn't boot up on my PS1, so i can't even try with that one, i would probably be luckier to convert the copy from NTSC to PAL on my PC.but how? I've already also tried another tool that promised to that, but it didn't fix anything (it was on the isozone).
There is any way to actually convert a NTSC and NTSC-J game into a PAL one? 1.) I don't think there's actually an application that would convert NTSC PS games to PAL. 2.) it wouldn't do anything to help you with a region lock issue. PAL and NTSC are just video formats.
You could still play an NTCS on your European PS. However, the video might not be compatible. I know from experience playing PAL PS on my NTSC PS, PAL would play on my modded system but the video was impossible to watch. The audio was fine but the video was in black and white and flashing. I don't know if it happens in reverse, but I thought that NTSC played on PAL. Just not the other way around. So, converting to PAL from NTSC wouldn't do any good about the game not loading.
It's still a region lock issue. 1.) I don't think there's actually an application that would convert NTSC PS games to PAL. 2.) it wouldn't do anything to help you with a region lock issue. PAL and NTSC are just video formats. You could still play an NTCS on your European PS. However, the video might not be compatible.
I know from experience playing PAL PS on my NTSC PS, PAL would play on my modded system but the video was impossible to watch. The audio was fine but the video was in black and white and flashing. I don't know if it happens in reverse, but I thought that NTSC played on PAL. Just not the other way around. So, converting to PAL from NTSC wouldn't do any good about the game not loading. It's still a region lock issue.
I have good news: i finally managed to make Import Player Light work on my PSone. I tried burning a NTSC-J game, and guess what.it worked!
On my PAL PSone! I would like add 'flawlessy' for everything (colors, textures, ecc.), the only thing that bothers me it's the screen position. It's a bit off, and it doesn't fully show the screen (it's still playable tho).
My version of this application (Import Player Light) doesn't have in game screen re-position, which allows you to position your screen where you wish, so my question now is: there is a way to reposition the screen BEFORE burning the disk? Like, making a little modify of the game, so it can run 100% flawlessy with the right postion on my TV? Thanks you for your support.
Jinn wrote:@Majestic Lizard You know the color of the recording surface does not mean anything, what matters is the type of recording formula dye used. The worst CD-Rs to use are made with the CMC dye. The best CD-Rs use the MCC, TY or Mitsui dye. I knew someone would attack me for that. First of all, it is rude to just flat out tell someone they are wrong.
You can say, 'that has not been my experience' or 'this is not my understanding'. It is called being civil. No doubt I will be attacked for saying that as well, but it is food for thought. The lens has to work harder to see through the colored media (goofy colors like red, green, black, purple, etc) than the silver media. This not only makes sense in theory, but experience has proven it as well. The effect is overtime and will not be noticed by playing a single colored disc, or even two or three.
Most CD-Rs use the CMC dye (which is not the best), but if they are also goofy colored CD-Rs this is much worse. The colored discs almost always use the CMC dye. The highly reflective silver ones use god knows what (depending on the brand), but I've never had the silver disks (the highly reflective ones) destroy a lens assembly. Verbatum discs usually use something better than the CMC dye and are what I normally use.
My experience is based on burning CD-Rs for the 3DO, Neo Geo CD, Duo, Sega CD, and Playstation. With these consoles I have found a noticeable correlation between non-silver discs (like the multi-color packs) and damage to lens assemblies.
We will just have to agree to disagree. I'm mature enough to leave it at that and I'm sure you can be too. I can agree with jinn on the CD-r quality being a factor in a PS1 playing backups. I originally tried some cheap walmart and radio shack brands with no luck. The only way I could even get them to load pass the playstation boot screen was to turn the POT on the laser to high for comfort. But his recommendation of Taiyo yunden and Verbatim AZO is spot on. The laser has been turned back near stock and reads them quickly every time with no skips in cutscenes or audio.
All my sega consoles down to SegaCD have never gave me problems reading cheap disks but the playstation has. Atreyu187 wrote:+1 for the Taiyo Yuden's I went to strictly that media years back and have never had a bad burn nor any problems with ANY image unless it was just a bad dump of course then there isn't much any type of media can do about it, but a descent burner also has a lot to do with how your disc turn out TBH. Cheap arse burner equals cheap results, I only use my Plextor to burn games as it is by far the best drive i have over the tons of cheap ones I have.
Ive never even seen or heard of these Taiyo Yudens. They must be like the BC Sasquatch I just use Philips brand CD-r. A quality company, great Cds and some of the best sounding/volume/treat like shit beating given MP3 players Ive ever seen.
I swear by their XBOX drives too, like a Sherman tank those suckers. But Im sure its just like DVDs as long as you dont use some no namer cheap ass brand like Hooker Discs of Armenia youre good to go. Jinn wrote:@Majestic Lizard You know the color of the recording surface does not mean anything, what matters is the type of recording formula dye used. The worst CD-Rs to use are made with the CMC dye.
The best CD-Rs use the MCC, TY or Mitsui dye. I knew someone would attack me for that.
First of all, it is rude to just flat out tell someone they are wrong. You can say, 'that has not been my experience' or 'this is not my understanding'. It is called being civil. No doubt I will be attacked for saying that as well, but it is food for thought.
The lens has to work harder to see through the colored media (goofy colors like red, green, black, purple, etc) than the silver media. This not only makes sense in theory, but experience has proven it as well.
The effect is overtime and will not be noticed by playing a single colored disc, or even two or three. Most CD-Rs use the CMC dye (which is not the best), but if they are also goofy colored CD-Rs this is much worse. The colored discs almost always use the CMC dye. The highly reflective silver ones use god knows what (depending on the brand), but I've never had the silver disks (the highly reflective ones) destroy a lens assembly.
Ps1 Game List
Verbatum discs usually use something better than the CMC dye and are what I normally use. My experience is based on burning CD-Rs for the 3DO, Neo Geo CD, Duo, Sega CD, and Playstation. With these consoles I have found a noticeable correlation between non-silver discs (like the multi-color packs) and damage to lens assemblies. We will just have to agree to disagree. I'm mature enough to leave it at that and I'm sure you can be too.
I have had a similar experience with burning for the Jaguar CD. Verbatims are the way to go, as any colored disk won't even work with the Jag, and half the time verbatims won't work, but I haven't been able to find anything that works any better. Plus they're cheap. Jinn wrote:@Majestic Lizard I didn't attack you or said you are wrong.
Since you use SILVER CD-Rs, can you provide the brand and manufacture ID. I'm just curious about the CD-Rs. I use Dark Blue AZO CD-Rs with the following MID This was just a misunderstanding. I did not get where Jinn was coming from and thought he meant something entirely different than what he was saying. The Taiyo Yuden's and Verbatums were generally the best CD-Rs in my experience.
Complete Ps1 Game List
Some of them are silver or gold and some of them have a blue hue. The manufacturing process of these discs is of higher quality than the generic brands. Some used CMC dye (or something similar) and some used AZO. Although dye is a factor, discs that use CMC dye can be good if the manufacturing process is of a high quality. Cheap discs seemed to work less reliably than Verbatum, but didn't seem to actually damage the lens assembly. They just would often not read.
However, the media would flake apart after about two years. A few years ago I looked into a bag of CD-Rs from the late 90's and the media had mostly disintegrated, except for the Verbatums (some were silver and some were blue hued). The discs that actually damaged my lens assembly were the cute designer discs that were multi-colored. If I remember, they were Memorex and Imation. These were always the worst.
There was often a smoky pattern on the reflective side of the discs and usually about a fifth of the discs in the packs were coasters. These used a cheap manufacturing process, CMC dye, and colored plastic. I was not referring to the high quality discs that Jinn was referring to, which have a blue hue due to using AZO dye. I was referring to the cheap colored discs that were often found at places like Office Depot and Best Buy many years ago.